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On the runway at Balenciaga
Paris’s most powerful fashion houses have just rounded off a week of shows that celebrate the vitality and strength of a woman’s wardrobe. From practical patent to the return of waist-centric tailoring and unapologetically eye-catching shades of green, this is your recap of Paris Fashion Week’s biggest trends for autumn/winter ’19/’20.
The trend: high-shine patent
Where we’ve seen it:
Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga
On the runway at Dior
What you need to know:
The Parisian definition of a versatile wardrobe classic (cue envy-inducing trenches and voluminous wide-leg trousers) includes a gloss finish for autumn/winter. At Dior, the high-shine look extended to rainproof bucket hats, while the late Karl Lagerfeld’s final collection for Chanel showcased the power of the slouchy patent pant suit.
On the runway at Chanel
How to wear it now:
Take a cue from Balenciaga and adopt vinyl layers in acidic colours to electrify an all-black look (extra marks awarded for styling yours with a polka-dot scarf). Note the new roomy silhouettes: 2019’s patent trend is about shopping one size up for a luxurious, grown-up feel. The added value? Consider the drizzly commute to the office as an excuse to invest.
On the runway at Celine
The trend: hero capes
Where we’ve seen it:
Celine, Chloé, Loewe, Miu Miu
On the runway at Chanel
What you need to know:
The cape has come out on top during all four of fashion month’s international legs, with Paris Fashion Week’s mightiest houses backing the trend for autumn/winter ’19/’20. Hedi Slimane’s unflinchingly chic Celine collection delivered the superhero cut in camel with a covetable gold chain link, Miu Miu opted for luxurious shearling, while Chloé resurrected the funnel neck cape from the archives.
On the runway at Chloe
How to wear it now:
The beauty of the new-era capes is that they are designed to fold into your everyday look – be that with slouchy tailoring (seen at Chanel), weekend denim (Celine) or worn alone as a statement in its own right (Maison Margiela).
On the runway at Mugler
The trend: architectural blazers
Where we’ve seen it:
Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Maison Margiela, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen
On the runway at Acne
What you need to know:
The Forties-cum-Eighties silhouette is big news for 2019, which means that you’re about to see blazers which accentuate the shoulders and waist everywhere. At Givenchy, all eyes were on the oh-so-flattering cropped blazer (worn atop delicate frills), while Isabel Marant delved into the pop culture archives for a modern remix of David Byrne’s 1984 Stop Making Sense stage look and McQueen channelled sharp military lines.
On the runway at Balmain
How to wear it now:
Look to Acne Studios for the new season’s cleverest styling tip: tuck a lightweight blazer into trousers and fasten with a contrasting belt for the freshest take on the Eighties-influenced mood.
On the runway at Kenzo
The trend: checkmate
Where we’ve seen it:
Louis Vuitton, Kenzo, Loewe, Off-White
On the runway at Loewe
What you need to know:
Chequerboard prints animated everything from knits (Kenzo) to neat coats (Loewe), leather skirts (Louis Vuitton) and gowns (Off-White) at PFW, making op-art the fastest way to stand out next season.
On the runway at Louis Vuitton
How to wear it now:
Your homework for this evening is to watch Gregg Araki’s 1995 black comedy Doom Generation and peruse Daniel Lee’s debut pre-fall 2019 collection for Bottega Veneta; the only way to pull off the monochrome racing flag print is with a heaping of attitude. Dip a toe in the trend with a chequerboard leather handbag (Bottega Veneta’s eye-wateringly pricey totes are top of Vogue editors’ shopping lists right now) the next time you’re venturing out for cocktails in an all-black ensemble.
On the runway at Balenciaga
The trend: green thinking
Where we’ve seen it:
Balenciaga, Chanel, Jacquemus, Givenchy
On the runway at Chanel
What you need to know:
When Kermit the Frog sang the line “It’s not that easy bein’ green” on The Muppet Show in 1977, high fashion hadn’t yet converted the bucolic hue into something resolutely wearable. From Balenciaga’s signature jade coats to Jacquemus’s emerald tailoring and Givenchy’s crisp forest green suiting, the richest shades nature has to offer are set to oust beige as the new It colour when autumn rolls around.
On the runway at Off White
How to wear it now:
There are two catwalk schools of thought: option one is to adopt a single turquoise-green piece (case in point are those head-turning Balenciaga coats) and keep the rest of your look all black. Option two is about embracing the confidence trick of wearing saturated, full-look colour, which as Jacquemus proves, looks excellent when accessorised with acres of bare skin.
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